Before Greenville and before Charleston, John Lewis was one of the pitmasters who helped launch Franklin Barbecue in Austin, the place a lot of people point to when they argue about the best brisket in the country. That pedigree is why the line out front moves slow and nobody seems to mind. His Central Texas brisket is the signature, cut to order and sold by weight, and it is the plate most tables build the rest of the meal around.
The board rewards a group. There is the "Hot Guts," a mostly beef house sausage with real heat, plus a second sausage packed with green chile and cheese, lightly glazed spare ribs, sliced turkey, and pulled pork for anyone who came in wanting something closer to Upstate home. The El Sancho Loco piles all three smoked meats onto one bun. Regulars learn to chase the daily specials too, including a Texas sized chicken fried steak with green chile gravy and a house cured pastrami on rye, both of which run only until they sell out.
Small touches separate it from a standard plate joint. Every order comes with a trio of house sauces and a cup of pickles and onions so you can dress each bite your own way, and the sides carry their weight. The corn pudding, a cheesy Hatch chile cornbread casserole, is the one reviewers tend to name first, with cowboy pinto beans, collards, and mac and cheese close behind. The patio is dog friendly with heaters for cooler nights, there is a bar with its own short menu when the main line looks long, and the kitchen takes on catering.
Reviewers are close to unanimous on the meat, and a health score up in the high 90s backs the open, watch them work kitchen. Two honest notes before you go. Service is order at the counter, so a real wait at peak hours comes with the territory. And while the smoked meats themselves are gluten free, this is not a dedicated gluten free kitchen, so anyone managing celiac should ask the counter about cross contact before ordering.